Cattleya Orchid Hybrid
is one of great interest .. Part 2

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Cattleya orchid hybrids are closely allied to brassias, laelias, epidendrums, and sophronitis—all of which have been crossed to produce some of the most spectacular flowers in the world. Such crosses of two families are commonly referred to as bigeneric; of three families as trigeneric.

Crosses involving three or more families are often given a specific name of their own. Usually, though, they are described by an abbreviated and euphonious combination of their family names. For example, laeliocattleya, or epilaelia, or sophro-laeliocattleya. The really outstanding hybrids have come from laeliocattleya crosses, the most interesting from the brassocattleyas and the brassolaeliocattleyas.

Perhaps the pleasantest thing about cattleya orchid hybrid's is that the plants aren't too large in proportion to the flowers. Most plants will stand about twelve to fourteen inches high, eighteen to twenty inches when in bloom. They are not too large for Wardian cases and are easily benched in bay windows. The foliage remains green and stiff throughout the year and in itself is not unattractive. Some people like to think of the foliage as resembling spineless cactus; others believe a more accurate description is to liken the foliage to a fat wooden salad spoon, the pseudobulb being the handle and the leaf being the curved bowl.

Cattleya orchid hybrid seedlings, too, are good foliage subjects during the four or five years of waiting you'll have before they bloom for the first time. They are also the least expensive way of increasing your orchid collection. Considering the cost of parent plants ($200 to $300 each and up) and the care and labor that go into seedling production, the low cost of seedlings themselves is astonishing. The price will vary from $20.00 to more than $50.00 depending upon the parents. Species sell for the lowest amount. Good hybrids will average $15.00 to $60.00. Seedlings from white or yellow orchids bring the top prices. You'll be surprised how easily seedlings adapt themselves to Wardian cases and hot frames and how many of them you can healthfully cram into such small structures.

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Cattleyas and their hybrids are not difficult to grow in a temperate zone; they come originally from a temperate climate. They are found only in three geographical areas in Central America, the Colombia-Venezuela area, and the seacoast of southern Brazil. In spite of geographical divergence, their culture is similar since they are found at elevations between 2,000 and 6,000 feet above sea level. The temperature is rather constant, rarely lower than 50° F. or higher than 90°. Temperatures as low as 40° and as high as 105° have been recorded in these areas, but never for long intervals. Usually, the lower temperatures are accompanied by dry, clear weather, the higher temperatures by considerable humidity and some cloudiness.

The natural habitat of cattleya orchid is on trees, although at high levels they may take to rocks. In either case, their roots don't enter the ground. They are true epiphytes and find their scanty food in shallow deposits of decaying litter and the occasional droppings of birds.

Cattleya orchid hybrids can stand—and need-more sunlight than other orchids.

Such sunlight has not the soft luminant quality of tropical sunlight. There is something disastrously intense about our summer sunlight. Meteorologists believe it to be due in part to the heavier concentration of the shorter light rays. Whatever it is, it is frequently injurious.

Except in the mild southern latitudes of the United States, cattleya orchid hybrids sometimes lack sufficient light to carry on their normal metabolism and growth. In the southern areas it is frequently necessary to shade cattleya orchids lightly in winter and to shade them more heavily in the summer. Normally, this is accomplished more easily by painting or shielding your windows with tent.

The methods of shading that many amateurs use on their cattleya orchid hybrid will vary, as widely as the section of the country in which they live and the type of structures in which they house their orchids. The best two methods are, without doubt, laths spaced their own width apart, and sleazy muslin or cheesecloth, not the heavier muslins used for sheeting and window curtains.

Bear in mind that for home growers better control of growth is possible with lath and muslin than by painting the glass. As a matter of fact, paint should never be used on small structures such as bay windows, Wardian cases, cold frames or small greenhouses.

With the exception of higher humidities (60 per cent by day), minimum warmth (50°), more light, and plenty of fresh but not chill air, the ordinary rules of culture, propagation, and potting apply to cattleyas. Since they are true epiphytes, osmunda is the best potting medium.

Water should be given them in moderation. Don't saturate the pots but water thoroughly each time. More than those of most orchids, their roots have been acclimated to wind and sun in their native lands. Let the osmunda dry out completely between applications of water. Cattleya orchids are harmed by excess water and prolonged dampness. The quickest way to kill cattleyas is to overwater them.